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Sturgis and the Dakota Badlands 2008

We had always wanted to see Mt. Rushmore, so this year we vacationed in South Dakota's Black Hills.  It was the best vacation we've ever had.   

Much to my surprise, our vacation overlapped the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally by a few days, so we took in some of that event, too.  The rally was interesting, but the real fun was in exploring the Black Hills and surrounding areas.  This is one of the United States' best kept secrets....it is an absolutely stunning area.  The scenery, the roads, the game, the weather, and the things to see and do were just wonderful.

Mt. Rushmore
As soon as we landed, we drove out to Mt. Rushmore.  It's about 40 minutes from the airport.

This is the view of Mt. Rushmore and the state flags from the Grand View Terrace area.  The columns supporting the flags show when each state was admitted to the Union.

A better Mt. Rushmore shot.  The presidents are Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln.
Here's another shot giving a better view of Teddy Roosevelt.  There's a path that goes from the Grand Terrace area to the base of the statues.
Vixie's Victorian Villa Bed and Breakfast
This is the B&B (Vixie's Victorian Villa) where we stayed.  

This B&B has a great location...it's only a few miles out of town, but it is in the Black Hills.

We made our flight reservations without realizing that our stay overlapped the Sturgis rally, and when I found that out, I was afraid we would not be able to find a hotel.  We were very lucky to get into the Victorian 
Villa B&B, one of the nicest places we've ever stayed.

Here's an interior shot of our room.  It was a great place to stay.   Vixie's breakfasts were wonderful.
See what I mean?

We stayed for 8 days, and we never had the same thing for breakfast twice.

Vixie is an incredible chef.

Deadwood
We stopped in Deadwood our first night there.  There were lots of motorcycles from the Sturgis Rally.   Deadwood is not too far from Sturgis.
Another shot of Deadwood at night.

Deadwood is an old mining town nestled between two mountain ridges.  It was a famous place in the old days (Wild Bill Hickok was shot to death in a card game in Deadwood).   

There are great photo ops in Deadwood, but not much else.  There were a few restaurants in town that looked like they might have been interesting, but all had changed their menu during the rally so more-easily-prepared (i.e., fried) foods to get people in and out.

 

Devil's Tower
The next morning we left for Devil's Tower in Wyoming.   There were many motorcycles on the way, and numerous roadside stands capitalizing on the Sturgis Rally.  This was a pretty common scene on the way out there.  I think that most of the people who go to the rally use it as a staging point to explore the area.
One of Harley's CVO bikes (CVO is their "Custom Vehicle Operations" moniker).  This is a Springer.  It costs about $35K.
This couple asked me to take their photo with their camera, and I did.  

I grabbed another one with my D200.   

That's Devil's Tower in the background.

I grabbed this shot while we were waiting to enter the park.
Devil's Tower.

There's a path that goes completely around the Tower.  

This was a very impressive place.

Another shot of Devil's Tower.

Devil's Tower was one of many high points on this trip.   It is definitely a "must see" item if you are ever in the area.

Sturgis
This was the 68th Annual Sturgis Rally.   It's one of the three big Harley rallies in the US (the other two are Laughlin and Daytona).

Attendance at Sturgis this year was down sharply from previous years, no doubt due to the recession.

We only spent one afternoon in Sturgis.  Tattoos, v-twins, and tinnitus...there's only so much of it I could take.   These Harley rallies are pretty much all the same.  Watching a bunch of guys my age pretending to be Marlon Brando 50 years ago gets old fast.  Funny thing about that, too: Marlon didn't ride a Harley in that movie...he rode a Triumph!

I would not go to Sturgis just to go to the rally, but I would go for the riding and the scenery in the Black Hills.

The Sturgis event is dominated by Harleys, but other marques also  appeared.  The Japanese V-twin cruisers were popular and I saw more of them than I expected to.   

The guy in the foreground in this photo is on a Honda Valkyrie, a bike based on the Honda Gold Wing.   Honda only made these for a few years.

Almost no one wore safety gear.  South Dakota does not have a helmet law.  I've heard all of the brainless slogans (e.g., "let those who ride decide") but I think people who ride like this are basically ignorant. 

We saw a few accidents while we were on this trip, with predictable outcomes for people dressed this way.

An R1200ST BMW in Sturgis.
One of the bands in Sturgis.   It was loud.
Wall
The next day we wanted to visit the Badlands.   

Just before entering the Badlands, there's a little town called Wall.   

The Hustead family built a drugstore there that has become a tourist attraction in its own right.  Although it's called Wall Drug, it is named for the town, and it is not affiliated with Walgreens or Wal-Mart.

Here's Sue in the Wall Drugstore

The Wall Drugstore takes up an entire large city block, with many things to do and see.   They had quite of few of these types of mannequins scattered around.
Sue posing with one of the mannequins.
Because we were in the tail end of the Sturgis Rally, there were bikes everywhere.  Not all were Harleys...this is a pretty clean 1980's era Honda 750, with an old Vetter fairing.
More motorcycles parked in Wall.
This was a pretty funny T-shirt.
Another older Honda.
This kid's ride was too colorful to pass up...
The Badlands
We had heard about the Badlands from our neighbors, so we knew we had to see this area. 

The Badlands are about 80 miles east of Rapid City.

The colors and geology are impressive.
This is the car we rented (a Ford Edge).  It was nice, and it got surprisingly good gas mileage.
Sue and I in the Badlands.

I guess you can tell...I'm not a Harley guy anymore.

A Honda Valkyrie and a Honda Shadow in the Badlands.
Another shot of the Badlands.
Mt. Rushmore at Night
Mt. Rushmore has an evening show that is impressive.   A park ranger talks about the history of the monument and each president, and then they show a movie in an outdoor amphitheatre.  

At the end, they ask all of the veterans to come up on stage to be recognized, and that was pretty cool, too.

After that, they had us (the vets) retire the flag.

American veterans retiring Old Glory at Mt. Rushmore.
When I got up the next morning, I saw these wild turkeys strutting by in front of our suite.
The Reptile Gardens
One of the attractions in the Black Hills is a theme park called Reptile Gardens.  It's essentially a zoo featuring (as you might guess) reptiles, but they also have an interesting bird exhibit.  It's a bit kitschy, but as kid who's always been fascinated by snakes, I persuaded my wife to go.   It was a lot of fun.  

Here's an American Bald Eagle at the Reptile Gardens.

This fellow is 126 years old.
Sue makes a friend.
American alligators.
A crocodile.  The crocodiles have pointed noses.  The alligator has a blunter nose.
A chameleon.
A trained African vulture.  This guy flew and walked wherever the trainers wanted him to.   They have kind of a goofy loafing walk...it was fun to watch.
A James viper.   These are very deadly.
An American copperhead.   I caught one of these when I was a kid in our backyard without realizing what it was.  This guy has a sinister smile.
A parrot at the Reptile gardens.
Custer State Park
On our way down to Custer State Park, I saw several cars parked by the side of the road.   They had stopped because a small group of Bighorn Sheep were out.
I got several shots of the sheep, and they let me get fairly close, which was really cool.   To my surprise, they make a lot of noise communicating with each other, and their language sounds unlike noises I have heard other animals make.  It's a blend of braying, grunting, and huffing.
An antelope in Custer State Park.  

We saw hundreds of antelope.

Stopped on the road through Custer State Park, checking out the buffalo.
A shot of one of the roads through Custer State Park.
More antelope.
There were numerous wild burros in Custer State Park.  They are used to being fed (if you stop, they will actually walk up and stick their face into your car).  

This guy was posing with two of the burros...he laughed when his friend took the photo and said "the three jackasses..."

A couple of the burros scratching each other.
Needles Highway
The Needles Highway in the southern Black Hills is one of the world's great roadways, with scenic pine forests, lots of game, towering granite spires, great vista points, and even a granite needle (more on this below).   We spoke to people in the area who said it was something we had to see, so we did.

During our ride on the Needles highway, I saw a couple of guys stopped on Harleys by the side of the road, and I asked them to take a photo of Sue and I.   

I pulled my usual stunt and asked one of the guys if his motorcycle was a Suzuki.  "No," he explained, "it's a Harley."  I picked a bad time to ask that question, though.  His Harley Sportster had just broken down (that's why they were stopped).  His friend had to ride into the next town to get a truck to tow the bike in.   What a bummer.  The guy told me he was through with Harleys - his next bike would be anything but.

The eye of the needle.  

Check out the climber.

There were a couple of these little one-lane tunnels through the mountains along the Needles Highway. 

I had never seen roads like this in the U.S. 

Crazy Horse
The Crazy Horse monument is under construction.  It is being curved out of a granite mountain in the Black Hills, much like Mr. Rushmore, except it is about six times as large.
This is what the monument will look like when it is finished.

Crazy Horse was the Indian chief who led the Indians at the Battle of the Little Big Horn.

Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski, who started work on the Crazy Horse monument.
The Minuteman Exhibit
We spent one morning visiting the National Park that had a Minuteman missile display.   It's out near the Badlands.  

This was a pretty cool thing to do.  The tour starts at the launch facility, with a briefing in this large, elliptical, underground command center.  The guide told us that the command center would not survive a direct hit, but it "might" survive a hit in the general area.

The launch center had a pretty cool logo.  It was styled to look like a Domino's pizza box, and the slogan was "Delivery anywhere in the world in 30 minutes, or the next one is free..."

We then went out to a silo, and another Park Ranger gave us a briefing on the missile launch site.

A Minuteman missile in its silo.   Each missile contained a 1.2 megaton warhead.   The tour guide explained that all of the munitions dropped in World War II together amounted to about 2.0 megatons.   In other words, each of these missiles packed a wallop equal to about 60% of all of World War II.  

Each site had 10 missiles.   At the height of the cold war, there were 150 missiles in South Dakota alone.

Later that day in downtown Rapid City, I saw another fellow with a Nikon camera shooting a photo of George Bush.  

I asked him to take a photo of Sue and me using my camera, and he did.

Wind Cave
There are several caves in the Black Hills.  We picked Wind Cave for a visit.
A shot deep in the cave.
Sue in the Wind Cave. 
Another Ride Through Custer State Park
After visiting Wind Cave, we drove through Custer State Park again.  Here's a buffalo outside our car.
We were on a dirt road, and we drove right through a buffalo herd.
Another antelope herd.
A dirt road leading to the Centennial Trail in Custer State Park.
A curious antelope.    This guy let me get to within about 20 feet.
Another shot of the buffalo.
Buffalo crossing the road in front of us.
This was the biggest guy in the herd.   

It was pretty cool being in amongst the buffalo.   These guys make a lot of noise.   We could hear them grunting and snorting.

A biker in Custer State Park.
We saw another herd further north.  I grabbed this shot as they were crossing the street in front of me.
Iron Mountain Road
Iron Mountain Road is another one of those roads that is just incredible.  It is in the Mt. Rushmore area, and it has a couple of spots with dramatic views of Mt. Rushmore.  

I  really like this shot.  There are a couple of places where Iron Mountain Road offers such views of Mt. Rushmore.  This one is through another one-lane tunnel.

Rapid City's Presidential Sculptures
I saw this Harley parked in downtown Rapid City.   The beadwork picks up on the Indian theme prevalent throughout the area.

There are several good restaurants in Rapid City.   We especially liked Botticelli's for dinner or lunch (outstanding Italian food), and as I said earlier, the breakfasts at Vixie's Victorian Villa B&B were absolutely outstanding.

Downtown Rapid City has life-sized bronze U.S. president statues.  They have 31 of the 43 presidents.  Here's Sue with one of them.
President Taft, poised to throw out a baseball.  He is the first president to do so.
Sue with my favorite president, Teddy Roosevelt.
Harry Truman, holding the newspaper announcing his defeat.
Sue and Tricky Dick.
The Gipper...another one of my all time favorites, and the greatest president during my lifetime.
This Indian Chief was in the lobby of the Hotel Alex Johnson in downtown Rapid City.
The obligatory mail box photo.   This was in Hisega, which was just across the road from Vixie's Victorian Villa B&B.
A deer on the lawn at Vixie's.
South Dakota School of Mining and Technology
On our last day in South Dakota, we realized we had pretty much hit every highlight in the Black Hills region and beyond.  We opted to visit the Geology Museum at the South Dakota School of Mining and Technology, and we were pleasantly surprised.   The museum is definitely worth a visit.
The main hall in the Geology Museum.
A prehistoric skull in the Geology Museum.
So, there you have it.  We spent 8 days in the Black Hills and it was wonderful.   There is a lot to see and do in the area, and you can see most of it in a week.  My advice if you are going to do Sturgis is this:  Try to overlap the rally by 2 or 3 days, and leave a 3 or 4 other days to explore the Black Hills without the heavy motorcycle traffic (it was a lot more fun without having to sit in traffic with the "loud pipes save lives" crowd).   We really enjoyed our time in the Black Hills, in Rapid City, and at Vixie's Victorian Villa B&B.  

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